How Long Do Horses Live? - 2024, CLT Livre

How Long Do Horses Live?

How Long Do Horses Live
12 – 18 ё 27 – 40 10 – 13

Can a horse live to 40 years old?

Can Horses Live to be 40? – Yes. With proper care, horses can live to be 40, but this is considered way beyond extreme old age. At the age of 36, a horse reaches the equivalent of a 100-year-old person. So don’t expect much if your horse lives past 36—pat yourself on the back for being an amazing caregiver to your horse.

Can a horse live to 100?

Cold-blooded breeds, which are already mature at 3 or 4 years of age, generally live until about 18 years of age. In contrast, the average age of thoroughbred horses is closer to 25, depending on their ‘sporting career’. The oldest equines ever recorded were 62 years old for a horse and 56 years old for a pony.

Is a 20 year old horse old?

Old horses. Old horses. When are horses really “OLD,” though? I’ll start this out with a very appropriate intro:

Back in the day, when my Papaw was a young man, when he called a horse “aged” at 18, it was fair. Yes, it was true that a horse, at that time, pushing twenty, having been worked intensively, without easy access to dental care, educated farrier care and modified nutrition, could have been considered beyond his prime (though not always, even then).

Things change. Not always for the better, but in this case, yes, it happens to be for the best. In 2019, there is little reason to consider most horses of twenty to be a old and beyond use and function in the riding world. While there are exceptions and certain breeds do AGE better than others, there aren’t many times a 20 year old horse in good health is a retirement ready horse.

Actually, these horses are the overlooked gems of the equine industry, I believe. Heaven knows, with as many as I have handled, saved, rehabbed and placed, I can attest to that. And just imagine, I am speaking about the 25 year old horse that has not been cared for well. Horse and Rider recently put out an article saying: “30 is the new 20,” and it really is.

I hear more and more about owners with horses nearing 40 than many would believe possible. While I am glad for the advances that allow horses to thrive to this age, I find we don’t yet have a full shift in view that says and understands and acts like: “20 year old horses still have years of ability and function ahead.” With the changes in understanding and care on equine teeth and feeding, a horse of twenty can expect 10 to 20 (yes, even 20) years of life ahead, and a lot of that time can have useful riding miles within it.

The truth is, with great care, a 20 year old horse is basically only middle aged. A sizable portion of horses in the USA right now are over 15 years old, and shifting the mindset of horse owners that says 20 doesn’t mean retirement age will help keep these horses safe and useful! It is hard to explain how hurtful to horses labels like “old” and “senior” can be when people use the terms for 13 to 16 year old horses.

These horses do not deserve such labels when they are really in a the prime of their lives. Neither do those a bit older. When you overlook great horses due to the age being 20 +, please stop and consider the story of Bob and Magic, the oldest Arabian horse at the time the story broke, of 45 years that was still being trail ridden and super fit at that age! Or think of Claire with her Arabian,Mercury, who was 27 upon completing the 100 Mile Tevis Cup in 16th place.

Most horses who begin this race cannot finish it. It isn’t that these horses are exceptions, folks. It is that these horses have exceptional people who knew horses over 20 are not “old” horses just due to a number and gave good care and maintained fitness. So once again, as with most equine problems, we see the issue being with the mindset of people.

While Heart of Phoenix and many rescues, deal with a large number of very young, untrained horses, we do have horses in their upper teens through twenties come through often enough to know how important a shift in public view is on this issue. All of the horses in the slideshow below are HOP horses over 20 that were adopted as active riding horses. Jpeg Continued reading on fitness, feeding and competition for horses 20 and up here

At what age is a horse considered old?

The age that classifies a horse as “senior” has drastically changed in the last century. At one time, a horse living to be 25-30 was considered very old. Today it is not uncommon to find healthy horses between 25-30 years of age. A 2015 survey by the National Animal Health Monitoring System (NAHMS) found that the overall horse population in the United States is older than 20 years of age.

  1. Advancements and improvements in equine healthcare and nutrition have increased their lifespan and the number of useful years of enjoyment we have together.
  2. So, at what age is a horse considered to be a senior today? This is hard to define as every horse should be considered as an individual and may not start showing signs of aging at the same time.

Typically, a horse will begin to be considered a senior between the ages of 15-18. By age 20, a horse is definitely a senior, but that does not mean that they cannot be ridden or still enjoyed. Many horses in their teens and 20s today are continuing to live active lives.

Digestive tract : Becomes not as efficient as it once was

Older horses will commonly have dental issues as their teeth wear out or become loose Weight loss, loose manure and even chronic diarrhea can result as the digestive tract is less able to absorb nutrients Higher chance of some types of colic, such as those that involve a blockage due to fat tumors called lipomas

Bones, Muscles and Joints : Become less resilient

Arthritis is a commonly seen in horses and may cause stiffness or limit the range of motion or exercise a horse can perform comfortably Laminitis (also called founder) is more common due to a horse being more prone to developing Cushing’s Disease as they age. Muscle wasting (muscle loss or decreased muscle tone) is more common on a horse’s topline with age

Immune System : Becomes less reliable, more susceptible to illness and slower to recover from disease and injury

Horses are more at risk for infection including parasite infections Cushing’s disease puts this age group at a greater risk because it causes high blood levels of cortisol in the body, a hormone which decreases the immune system’s responsiveness

Respiratory Tract : Becomes more prone to respiratory problems and disease

Recurrent Airway Obstruction (Heaves), similar to asthma in humans, tends to progress as a horse ages

Reproductive Tract : Fertility declines in both mares and stallions as they age

Pregnancy is more difficult to achieve and sustain In mares, age related progressive degeneration of the uterine lining can occur, and eggs that are produced by the ovaries becomes less fertile In stallions, sperm quality and quantity may decline

Cardiovascular System : With aging, changes may impact the heart and blood vasculature leading to heart failure or sudden death if a major vessel ruptures Nervous System : Overall aging changes can cause slight decrease in coordination which can reduce agility/athleticism

Arthritic changes specifically in the neck or spinal cord can result in progressive lack of coordination

Endocrine System : As horses age, abnormal hormone production by the pituitary gland at the base of the brains results in Cushing’s Disease

Cushing’s Disease is one of the most common diseases seen in horses greater than 15 years old It is estimated that 20% of horses at 15 have Cushing’s disease and 20-33% of horses will develop Cushing’s disease by age 20

As horses age, they may be less able to handle environmental stress such as wind, wet, and cold. This is especially important for winter weather.

Is 30 too old for a horse?

The pleasures and pitfalls of caring for very old horses – “You can’t help getting older, but you don’t have to get old.” The immortal words of late comedian George Burns might very well apply to our horses. With their elevation in status from work animals to companions, horses’ “average” lifespan has increased dramatically over the past several decades.

  1. Many horses continue to lead active and productive lives well into their 20s and 30s,” says Jo Ireland, BVMS, PhD, CertAVP(EM), MRCVS, a lecturer in equine practice at the University of Liverpool’s School of Veterinary Science, in Leahurst, U.K.
  2. Albeit rare, reports of horses living to be 50 do exist.

“While some (owners) focus on age in years, others instead assess their horse’s physiologic age and base aging on functionality and the presence or absence of age-related diseases,” she adds. Burns’ words of wisdom aside, Ireland attests that horses over 15 years are generally classified as old, whereas those 30 and above are very old.

In human medicine, a common term for this population is “late elderly.” The number of horses surviving 30 years or more is, not surprisingly, small. Current estimates suggest that only 2.2% of all horses and ponies in the U.K., for instance, are over 30. In this article we’ll review the unique needs of very old horses.

We’ll also meet five horses beyond 30 with age-related ailments.

Can you ride a horse at 50?

Can adults learn horse riding? – Absolutely. Your learning experience will probably look a little different than if you’d learnt to ride as a child though. Take a look at Horse & Hound or the British Horse Society to find a riding school near you. It’s best to visit a few different centres so you can get a feel for the environment, meet the instructors and see some of the horses.

How old is a 15 year old horse in human years?

Calculating Horse Age to Human Age – There’s not just one horse age chart or calculator to answer this question, as each horse is an individual, so it’s important to not take this too literally. Just like humans, each individual horse will age at a slightly different rate than another.

6.5 human years for each horse year from birth up to age 4 2.5 human years for each horse year starting at age 4

Let’s say your horse is 15 years old.6.5 x 3 years = 19.5 human years 2.5 x 12 years = 30 human years Your 15-year-old horse is 49.5 in human years! Time to start planning that big milestone birthday party.

How old is a 27 year old horse in human years?

Horse to Human Age Comparison Chart

Horse Age Stage of Life Human Age
24 70.5
27 78
30 Extreme Old Age 85.5
33 93

Can a horse carry a 100 kg person?

How much weight can a horse carry? – As a general rule, a horse can only comfortably carry up to 15–20% of its own body weight, though this may differ slightly from horse to horse. For instance, a horse that weights 500kg can comfortably carry a load of 100kg.

  • It’s also worth bearing in mind that this amount includes both your weight and the weight of any equipment (saddle, rug, bridle etc.).
  • If you’re too heavy for your horse, they will be uncomfortable when being ridden and can experience soreness, including back pain, muscle strain, joint issues, and temporary lameness, with long-term damage a real possibility if you carry on riding them.

Their performance will also suffer as they will fatigue a lot more quickly, and there’s more of a risk that they’ll stumble and fall. Thankfully, there are warning signs that indicate that a horse is carrying too much weight. You will notice that they begin to breathe heavily, sweat more, and have a much higher heart rate.

It’s likely that their behaviour will change too: expect them to drag their feet and move slowly, with extra tension in the neck and back as they brace against the weight. If any horse you’re riding displays these signs, it’s best to stop the ride and allow them to rest before leading them back to the stable.

Whether your horse is capable of carrying 15% or 20% within the range may depend on whether it is a sturdy breed or if it’s an athletic horse, and the only real way to find out is to take a test ride or two together and see whether they are comfortable or showing any signs of discomfort.

Is 71 considered old?

Who is Defined as Elderly? – Typically, the elderly has been defined as the chronological age of 65 or older. People from 65 to 74 years old are usually considered early elderly, while those over 75 years old are referred to as late elderly. The word elderly has been used for hundreds of years, originating from the noun elder, which was considered a respected title.

Can you ride a 24 year old horse?

When Should a Horse Stop Being Ridden? – As a horse begins to age, their requirements change. The strenuous rides and exercise routine that were once easy to accomplish become more of a challenge. Each horse is unique in the rate at which they age. However, it’s common to stop regularly riding your horse when they are between 20 to 25 years old.

  • At this point in most horses’ lives, they begin to struggle with joint pain, degenerative conditions that are no longer managed by medications, and simply tiring more easily.
  • Carefully watching your horse as they near their senior years will provide you with insight into the level of activity they are capable of.

Additionally, a veterinarian will be able to advise you on their physical condition which will help guide your riding decisions. It’s important to take proper care of your horse as they age to ensure their comfort. Riding a horse too late into life can exacerbate any existing health conditions and potentially shorten their lifespan.

Is 17 too old for a horse?

So how old is old? Most experts agree a horse can be considered geriatric when he reaches 18 to 20 years of age.

Is a 1 year old horse called?

Page 2 – Horses can be capable of breeding from 18 months old, but domesticated horses are usually allowed to mature to at least three years old before breeding. Gestation lasts between 11 and 13 months, depending on the breed, and usually results in the birth of just one foal. The foal is capable of standing and running within a short time after birth.

  1. There is specific terminology used to describe horses depending on their age:
  2. • Foal: A horse of either sex less than one year old.
  3. • Yearling: A horse of either sex that is between one and two years old.
  4. • Colt: A male horse under the age of four.
  5. • Filly: A female horse under the age of four.
  6. • Mare: A female horse four years old and older.
  7. • Stallion: A non-castrated male horse four years old and older.
  8. • Gelding: A castrated male horse of any age.
  9. Regardless of when a horse is born, for horses that enter into racing competitions, a year is added to its age every January 1st in the Northern Hemisphere and every August 1st in the Southern Hemisphere!

: Horses

Is a 2 year old horse a baby?

While a foal will only be called a foal for the first year of its life, a horse is not fully mature until it is 4-5 years old. Those are their teenage years! Foal = a baby horse.

Should I buy a 20 year old horse?

An older horse often has a lot to offer, despite its age. Even an 18 or 20-year-old horse can have many years of use proper care (and ponies even longer). For those just learning about keeping and riding a horse, an older horse may be the best choice.

Is 60 too old to ride a horse?

Am I too Old to Learn to Ride a Horse? Posted on March 14, 2020 at 11:13 am by Did you always dream of riding a horse as a child, but never had the opportunity? Or did you used to ride, but then life took over? Whatever your circumstances, making the decision to learn to ride a horse as an adult can seem daunting! It can also leave you asking yourself whether you could be too old to learn to ride a horse. Build your fitness Horse riding can be hard work physically, involving a lot of cardio. If you’re thinking about getting lessons, you might want to do some preparation beforehand by improving your fitness; this depends upon how fit you are currently of course! The fitter you are when you begin, the easier you’ll find it, and the faster you might be able to pick up your new skills.

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What’s your motivation? Consider the reasons why you want to learn to ride a horse and what you want to achieve. Do you want to be able to go for a casual day’s hacking around the countryside? Is your aim to compete? Or is your ambition simply to become a horse owner, and so you would like to develop the skills you’ll need for this? Types of horse riding Have you thought about what type of riding you would like to try out? There are so many different styles of riding available, such as Western, English, dressage, trail riding and speed events, to name just a few.

If there’s a particular kind of riding you like the sound of, try to seek out an instructor or school that specialises in this activity. Get a sample Before committing to an expensive and time-consuming course, it could be best to watch a lesson being given by your instructor of choice, or to book in a single sample lesson yourself.

  • By doing this, you’ll be able to get a really good taste for the sport, as well as whether or not you’ll get on with your instructor.
  • Finding the best instructor for you could make all the difference! Practice makes perfect! As with learning any new activity, the more frequently you’re able to practise horse riding, the faster you’ll progress! If you’re unable to hone your skills with much frequency, remember not to beat yourself up about it.

No matter how often you practise, you’ll need to be patient. Rome wasn’t built in a day, and it’s unlikely that you’ll become Charlotte Dujardin within a similar time frame! Take the time to learn thoroughly, and above all, don’t give up! Group vs individual lessons Whether you decide to learn to ride as part of a group, or individually, is up to you. Group sessions can work out much cheaper, but if you’re taught on a one-to-one basis, you’ll be able to get advice tailored solely to you and your ability.

Practising as a group can have the added benefit of getting you out on your equine adventures with likeminded people. This can make what could be a fairly solitary pursuit into a fantastic social event. Ride the right horse for your ability, and it’s important, especially as a beginner, that the horse you’re riding is appropriate to both your size and level of skill.

Some horses take better to being ridden than others, and yours should be placid enough to put up with a novice rider. Speak to your instructor about selecting the right animal for your lessons. Get some horse riding clothes You won’t want to splash out on gear before you’ve started your first lesson, and you should be able to borrow certain items from your horse riding school to begin.

But as you progress, you’ll need to get an appropriate helmet and heeled boots. Whatever trousers you decide to wear, make sure they don’t have an inner seam, as this can chafe. Don’t wear anything too loose, as this can become tangled up in your horse’s equipment. You will hurt As we mentioned above, horse riding provides quite a lot of intense exercise, so expect to be sore for at least the following day, if not more! You’ll find yourself using muscles you never knew you had, and it will probably hurt.

Don’t worry, however, as with a little persistence you’ll be up to peak fitness in no time! You will fall It’s inevitable, ask any horse rider, no matter how much or how little experience you have in the saddle, you will at some point fall off, and it will probably hurt. There’s no such thing as a silly question This is a good one to remember, as sometimes it can be easy not to ask a question you’d really like to know the answer to for fear of it being thought silly! We can almost guarantee, however, that your horse riding instructor will already have been asked pretty much everything at some point, and remember no question is silly if it will help you attain your goals! The most important thing to remember is that if you have a dream, and that dream is to ride a horse, you should get out and make the most of it! If you’re thinking about buying a horse, you might also want to to help protect them against the unexpected.

At The Insurance Emporium, our Horse Insurance policies come with cover for Death, Theft Or Straying as standard, and can be customised with our Optional Benefits, such as cover for Vet’s Fees. You can also get up to 30% discount^! Why not head to our equine product pages to find out more? * The Insurance Emporium’s Horse Rider Insurance products provide cover for riders between 5-75 years of age.

^ The 30% discount is made up of 20% Introductory Discount plus 10% Multi-horse Discount (if appropriate). The Introductory Discount is available for the first 12 premium payments on lunar and calendar monthly policies or one premium payment on annual policies.

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Should I buy a 12 year old horse?

At ELS, parents frequently ask us for advice on choosing a horse for their child. Here is what we tell them: (1) Sign your child up for riding lessons. Enroll your child in regular riding lessons (at least once a week) with a reputable instructor who can provide horses for lessons.

  • Look for a program that includes other children so your child has others his or her age to learn with and from.
  • 2) Join a horse club.
  • Sign your child up to be a member of a local 4-H horse club or local chapter of the U.S.
  • Pony Club,
  • Both 4-H and Pony Club offer a wealth of opportunities for you and your child to learn about horses and develop horsemanship and leadership skills.

They provide fun, safe, and encouraging environments and focus on teamwork and responsibility. These clubs are family-based organizations – as a parent, expect to volunteer and learn along with your child. (Note: You do not need to own a horse to join either of these organizations.) To find the right horse club for your child, ask for recommendations from their riding instructor and others in the local horse community,

  1. You can get more information about your local 4-H horse clubs and club leaders’ names and contact information by calling your county’s cooperative extension service.
  2. 3) Lease a horse.
  3. If your child demonstrates a sustainable interest in horses and you find that weekly riding lessons do not provide enough “horse time” for your child, consider a full or partial lease of a horse for at least six months.

Leasing is an arrangement in which you pay either a fixed fee or a portion of the horse’s expenses in exchange for riding time on that horse. In the typical full lease, you take over all of the horse’s expenses and care responsibilities, and in a typical partial lease, the owner remains primarily responsible for these items.

Ask your child’s instructor to recommend a leasing situation for you. ELS offers lease agreement forms that clarify the owner’s and the lessee’s responsibilities to make your leasing experience a pleasant one. Another advantage to leasing is that it sometimes results in the owner being willing to sell you the horse because they are happy with the partnership that has developed between the horse and your child and approve of the facility and instructor.

Of course, you would only want to do so if the instructor also agreed that the horse was a good choice for your child. (4) Purchase a horse. If, and ONLY if, leasing a horse does not provide enough “horse time” for your child or does not allow them to participate in activities outside of the stable where the leased horse is boarded should you consider actually purchasing a horse or pony.

Owning a horse or pony is a huge commitment, a lot like going from renting to owning a home. Horse Budget An important factor to consider is that getting your child a horse is an investment in their future. Keeping a child actively involved in any sports activity is good for them mentally and physically.

Participating in 4-H and Pony Club activities will also teach them hard work, responsibility, social skills, teamwork, and other lifelong skills. It will also keep them so busy they are less likely to become involved in “undesirable” activities. As a friend once said, “You can pay for their horse experience now, or you can pay a counselor later.” Purchase Price Parents often ask how much they should spend on a horse for their child.

  • The answer is, “That depends” What are your child’s goals? If your child just wants to go out and have fun, and compete at a local level, you should be able to find a suitable horse for $5,000 or less (price will vary greatly depending on the horse market in your area).
  • Suitable horses often become available for purchase or lease when teenagers graduate and go off to college; being in a 4-H club or Pony Club can help you find these horses.

But if your child has more serious competitive aspirations, such as showing at more than a local level, talk to your child’s instructor about what you should expect to spend for a suitable horse and ask them to help find one for you. Keep in mind, however, that your child’s first horse can be a “starter horse” – a horse that is safe for your child and will help them learn basic horsemanship skills.

  • Even if your child eventually wants to compete at a national or world level, your child’s first horse doesn’t have to be the horse that will take them to the top.
  • Ongoing Expenses It is very important to understand that the initial purchase price of the horse is just the tip of the iceberg.
  • Here are some of the items you should budget for on a monthly basis, in the approximate order of expense (high to low): 1.

Board

Types of board range from full care (includes feeding and stall cleaning), to self-care (includes only a place to keep the horse and the boarder does all of the work and provides all of the feed and bedding). Boarding rates vary tremendously and are highly dependent upon the local market as well as the amenities offered by individual facilities. Try to find a boarding facility that is no more than 20 minutes from your home so that it will not be a hassle to be there every day.Boarding at a facility where the instructor teaches is much cheaper than having to buy property with acreage, a barn, and an arena (and then having to maintain that property).

2. Lessons

Even if your child has taken lessons for several years, ongoing instruction will allow your child to continue to improve his or her skills. A professional instructor can help prevent problems and solve those that do arise, all in an environment that helps your child stay safe.

3. Competitions

Whether your child is in the local Pony Club or 4-H, they will likely want to participate in at least some modest forms of competition, which involves entry fees, transportation for the horse, and special outfits and equipment. Consult your instructor for more guidance on this expense item.

4. Farrier

Your horse will require regular farrier care every 6-8 weeks, and the cost will depend upon what type of trimming and shoes the horse requires, as well as your local market. Older horses may require special or corrective shoeing to keep them sound, which typically costs more than regular shoeing.

5. Veterinarian

You should establish a good relationship with a veterinarian before you even lease or buy a horse. When you need him or her, you will REALLY need them. Being familiar with your horse can be very beneficial, especially in emergency situations. Your horse will require shots at least twice a year and worming approximately every two months. Ask your veterinarian to recommend a vaccination and worming program for you. Your horse will also require emergency or special care from time to time, and you should plan the cost of this care into your budget. To offset the cost, you may wish to purchase a major medical insurance policy on your horse. Some horses may also require medications or other treatments, such as joint injections, acupuncture, or chiropractic work, to maintain their health and soundness. Your horse will also require dental care approximately once a year.

6. Tack and Equipment

Besides the horse, your initial investment will include a saddle, saddle pad, bridle, grooming supplies, blankets, and other basic needs.Ongoing expenses will include fly spray, replenishing grooming supplies, repairing and replacing horse blankets, and replacement of equipment that wears out or is damaged. Ask your instructor for guidance in choosing equipment and supplies that are good quality and long lasting, as price is not always a reliable indicator of quality.

7. Feed and Supplements

Many families wisely choose older horses for their first horse purchase. However, older horses do often require extra feed and supplements to keep them healthy and sound. Consult your veterinarian for more specific nutrition advice.

8. Bedding

Most boarding facilities provide bedding as part of a full-care program.

9. Unexpected Expenses

Horses being horses, there are ALWAYS unexpected expenses that arise – just part of horse ownership!

You should ask your instructor to help you create a realistic budget, and you can talk with other parents about their experience. Beware of Dishonest Sellers! Crooked horse sellers and horse sale fraud are more common than you think. As a parent, your number one priority should be your child’s safety.

You want to buy Old Reliable for your child – a horse that is well trained, well mannered, and kind, with a quiet, steady temperament. Some sellers will tell you everything you want to hear in order to sell you a horse, and this could be dangerous for both you and your child! They may even resort to drugging a horse to make them quiet and obedient when you come for a test ride.

A good way to avoid making a huge mistake is to do your homework before you start horse shopping and take an experienced horse person with you to look at, ride, and evaluate the horse. What Kind of Horse Should I Buy? Again, your number one priority should be your child’s safety.

And remember, you need Old Reliable for your child. Your first horse should be one that nearly anyone can handle and ride. If it isn’t, your child will stop having fun and might even become fearful. Temperament, Temperament, Temperament! Temperament should be the single most important factor in your horse-buying decision.

Old Reliable will be kind, gentle, quiet and calm and won’t kick or bite. You and your child will make mistakes in handling and riding your new horse, and you want him to be tolerant and forgiving, a gentle teacher. Old Reliable should easily allow your child (with adult supervision) to catch the horse in the pasture or stall, halter the horse, lead the horse to the grooming area, tie the horse up, groom the horse, pick out its hooves, saddle, bridle, and mount the horse.

Let your instincts be your guide – even as a novice, you can tell a lot before anyone even rides the horse! Does the horse walk quietly and slowly with your child, and wait patiently for your child to tie it up, or does it prance ahead or try to use your child as a scratching post? Does the horse stand still for grooming and saddling, or does it swing its body all over the place? Does the horse wait quietly for your child to tighten the girth (adults should help with this) and mount, or does it step off just as your child is putting his or her foot in the stirrup? Does it pin its ears and wring its tail, or does it wait patiently for your child to finish the job at hand? Here is a very simple test for temperament.

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When you go to look at a horse, bring a jacket with you (any kind of jacket). While the seller is riding the horse, carefully place the jacket on the fence near the area where the horse is being ridden. If it’s an open area, place the jacket on the ground.

  1. Note the horse’s reaction to the jacket – does he casually notice the jacket and go right on by, or does he screech to a halt or jump sideways? You want a horse to notice the jacket and even be casually interested in it, but not afraid of it.
  2. He should go right past the jacket without snorting or eye rolling.

Does Size Matter? Many parents ask whether they should buy a pony for their child because it is more size-appropriate. The size of the horse is almost completely irrelevant. Even a small pony can be a terror, and the largest horse can be very gentle and quiet.

  1. Choose a horse for your child based on temperament, not size.
  2. Also keep in mind that as your child grows, he or she may outgrow a pony or small horse, but they will likely never outgrow a good-sized horse.
  3. If the horse is too large for your child to mount or saddle without help, they can use a mounting block.

What Breed Should I Buy? Much like dogs, horses have been selectively bred for generations to develop particular breeds with particular characteristics. Certain breeds tend to be quieter and more docile, such as Quarter horses, Paint horses, and many types of draft horses.

  1. Other breeds tend to be more spirited, such as Arabians and Thoroughbreds.
  2. However, there are outstanding examples of quiet, docile horses as well as highly spirited horses in every breed.
  3. Your child’s instructor can help recommend the right breed(s) for you.
  4. How Much Does Age Matter? The ideal horse for first-time horse buyers is probably 10-20 years old.

Younger horses generally aren’t quiet and experienced enough for a first-time horse owner. Horses can live to 30 years plus with good care, so don’t exclude older horses from your search. At the same time, don’t be tricked into becoming a “forever home” for someone’s horse that is on its last legs.

Your veterinarian will be able to advise you on an older horse’s prospects for long-term health and soundness. Some parents dream of buying a young horse for their child so that they can “grow up together,” but that is rarely a good idea. More often, the young horse runs roughshod over the inexperienced child or parent and becomes a 1200-lb.

dangerous spoiled brat. Age vs. Experience Age is never a reliable indicator of a horse’s training and experience. You want a horse who has been there, done that – well-trained and very experienced under saddle. There are older horses out there that have been “pasture puffs” and have little or no riding history.

  1. Steer clear of any horse that is advertised as “needs finishing” or “green” or “ready to go in any direction.” Choose a horse that is currently doing exactly what you want him to do.
  2. For example, if trail riding interests your child, choose a horse that is a very experienced trail horse.
  3. Gelding or Mare? Although there are many quiet mares out there who never show signs of being in season, as a general rule, geldings tend to be more reliable and less moody.

Under no circumstances should you purchase a stallion for your child. The classic Black Stallion books by Walter Farley are works of fiction, and in real life, The Black probably would have seriously injured or killed Alec, his young admirer, even though he might not have meant to do so.

Should I Care About Color? In a word, NO! There is an often-quoted saying that “a good horse doesn’t have a bad color.” Your child may have his or her heart set on a golden palomino or flashy black and white pinto. Don’t give in to them! Eliminating horses because your child doesn’t like the color will shrink an already small list of potential horses and may eliminate a horse that would have been perfect for your child.

Once the horse is settled in its new home and your child is having a great time riding and taking lessons, they will most likely forget that they originally wanted a horse of a different color. Temperament, suitability, and experience should trump beauty – every time! What About Buying a Horse at an Auction? DON’T.

DO. IT. Don’t be sucked in by the urge to “rescue that poor horse.” There may be suitable horses that, due to no fault of their own, end up at an auction sale. But, for every horse that would be a good choice for your child, there are 99 others that are at the auction for a reason. They could be sick, lame, injured, have cancer, have genetic defects, be dangerously aggressive, buckers, kickers, rearersthe list is long.

It is not uncommon for horses to be given drugs before going in the sale ring. Sometimes it is just for the safety of the horse and auction pen workers (an excited horse in a tiny pen with a PA system and people yelling out bids can be a bit much for even a well-broke horse).

  1. But often it is to make the horse look quieter, safer, and more sound than it actually is.
  2. You may get your new horse home or to its new barn only to have the drugs wear off and the horse become a crazy, dangerous, 1200-lb.
  3. Snorting ball of fire.
  4. Is It Okay to Buy a Horse From Just a Video? NO.
  5. Never buy a horse without seeing it and trying it in person.

Videos are great, but can be edited to remove portions where the horse is not behaving or even showing lameness. You can’t tell if the horse needed to longed for three hours before it was safe to get on, you can’t tell the type of bit that is being used, and it’s too easy for the seller to give the horse an anti-inflammatory drug and/or a sedative to make the horse appear sound and quiet.

  1. We have even seen videos of high-end Western pleasure prospects that were video-edited to make the horse look like it is jogging and loping more slowly than it actually is.
  2. So even if the seller offers to send you a video, insist that you see and try out the horse in person.
  3. And if they won’t let you come to their facility to see the horse, that’s a big red flag – pass on that one.

What About Facebook Sales? They Sell Bomb-Proof Horses and Show Children Riding Them There seems to be a new trend to use Facebook to advertise “bomb-proof, kid-safe, do-anything” horses and ponies for kids at rather high prices. The seller will tell you the prices are high because “kid-safe” horses and ponies are hard to find, so they are worth a lot of money.

They’ll tell you anything you want to hear to get you to buy a horse or pony from them. Some of them offer a “money-back guarantee,” but good luck getting the seller to honor that guarantee if you are dissatisfied. All of the reasons not to buy online are mentioned in “Is It Okay to Buy a Horse From Just a Video?” above.

Just don’t do it! You need to see and try the horse in person. Where CAN I Find Old Reliable? Every parent wants an Old Reliable for their child’s first horse. Unfortunately, Old Reliables are few and far between, and seldom on the market. Instead, Old Reliable tends to be passed down from child to child within a family, between members in a 4-H or Pony Club group, or among families that are clients of an instructor.

Because you have already signed your child up for lessons with a professional instructor and a 4-H or Pony Club group (you have, right??), you are already on the right track to finding a suitable horse for your child. Your child’s instructor should be actively involved in your horse-buying process. Before you do anything else, consult with the instructor about what your horse-buying criteria and your budget should be.

Have them help you put together a list of requirements that you can look for when you start your search. You can browse sale ads on your own – Dreamhorse is a good Internet sale site to begin your search. You can also browse classified ads on your own, and many local feed and tack stores have a For Sale board where people post their horses for sale.

At local horse shows, there are frequently horses being marketed for sale. Most trainers and instructors have a good network and often contact each other when they have a horse to sell or need to find a horse for a client, so your instructor is a good resource when beginning your search. There are so many sale ads – how can you narrow down the list? Start with geography – eliminate the horses that are more than a day’s drive from your home, because you will want to go and see the horse in person before buying.

Next, sort by age, gender and breed. Finally, read the text of the ads and eliminate the following:

Pregnant mares. Foaling and raising a foal is NOT a project for novice horse people. Additionally, your child won’t be able to ride in the weeks before and months after the foaling. Avoid any ads that say, “in foal.” Horses not suitable for a beginner, If the ad says the horse needs an intermediate or advanced rider, believe it and move on. Hyper horses. Code words include “spirited,” “has a lot of go,” “big motor,” “barrel prospect,” “gymkhana prospect,” “endurance prospect,” “needs strong rider,” “needs quiet rider,” etc. Horses that are a pain in the a$$. Code words might include “can be stubborn at times,” “needs a confident rider,” “can be pushy,” etc. Horses that aren’t well trained enough for your child. Code words include “great X prospect” or “in training for X” (where X = what the seller thinks a buyer might want to do with the horse). See also “loads of potential,” “well started,” “needs finishing,” “ready to start,” “still growing,” and “will mature to X.” Horses that have health or soundness problems mentioned in the ad. Code words include “needs special shoeing,” “needs some maintenance,” “would make a good walk/trot horse,” “broodmare prospect only,” etc. EXCEPTION: A horse described as “serviceably sound” may work for your needs, but only your veterinarian can tell you for certain.

What DO you want to see in an ad?

Horses with a good temperament. Code words to look for include “bombproof”, “quiet,” “steady,” and “calm.” In search functions that have a scale of 1-10 where 10 is the most spirited, you want to look for something close to a 1 and no more than a 5. Horses that are well trained. Look for a “proven youth horse” that “anyone can ride.”

And now some words of caution. Just because the ad SAYS the horse is “bombproof,” “child-safe,” “currently being shown by a child,” or “more whoa than go” doesn’t mean the seller is telling the truth. See Beware of Dishonest Sellers! above. Another word of advice – if the seller claims the horse has been shown and has a show record, find out the horse’s breed or discipline, registered name, and registration number.

If the horse has been shown in USEF competitions, you can look up the horse’s show record online for free. Most breed associations require a paid membership in order to access their records online, so see if you can find someone that is already a member and ask them to look up and print out the horse’s show record for you.

If the horse has been shown locally, ask around the local horse community and see if anyone knows the horse. You may find out that the horse’s accomplishments were overstated, or that there is no show record at all. Print the ads for horses that you think might be suitable and run them by your instructor.

With their help, you can narrow your search and develop more specific criteria, then develop a list of horses to call and inquire about. Just like buying a used car, buying a horse involves a degree of creativity in interpreting the text of an ad. ELS’ ” Equine Advertising Translation Guide,” while meant to be funny, also includes more than a kernel of truth.

When you have identified ads for suitable-sounding horses that your instructor has approved, you can begin calling about them and asking questions using ELS’ free horse-buying checklist, Trust your instincts – if you don’t like the answers to your questions, the seller is unresponsive, or doesn’t answer your questions fully and openly, don’t waste your time by going out to look at the horse.

And don’t be intimidated by the fact that you are a first-time horse buyer – any seller who treats you rudely or speaks condescendingly to you is not someone from whom you want to buy a horse for your child. Going to Look at Horses: 20 Dos and Don’ts Once you have called and inquired about all of the horses in the ads you have selected, go over your list and notes with your instructor and eliminate any horses that your instructor does not approve.

You can continue to use ELS’ horse-buying checklist as a tool for evaluating the horses that you see in person. Here are a few tips to sharpen your horse-buying skills and etiquette. (1) DON’T allow your child (unless he or she is an older teen) to make the calls about the horse.

DO make the calls yourself, using the horse-buying checklist, DON’T rely too heavily on email or text messaging – it’s often quicker to make a call then ask lengthy questions in email or by text. But if you do call them, take careful notes of your conversation and answers to your questions. (2) DON’T start calling about or looking at horses in person until you are ready to buy.

Few things are more irritating to a horse seller than a tire kicker. (3) DON’T look at horses that are priced more than 20% over your horse-buying budget, unless you have good reason to believe that the seller will negotiate the price to fit within your budget.

4) DON’T try to negotiate the price before you have even seen the horse. Wait until you have thoroughly tried out the horse and received your instructor’s approval, THEN negotiate. (5) DO call and make an appointment with the seller before coming out to look at a horse, and don’t be late. Ask the seller to please wait until you arrive to catch the horse and get it ready so you can see if the horse is easy to catch, how it behaves while being groomed and tacked up, and how long it takes to be warmed up before being ridden.

That will allow you to see if the horse stands quietly when tied, if he is “cinchy” (cinchy horses will sometimes rear back and throw themselves on the ground if the cinch is tightened too quickly), if they have to tie the horse short because it tries to bite you when you’re putting the saddle on, and if the horse requires extensive longeing to get the “edge” off so it is safe to get on.

(6) If you will be late or need to cancel or postpone the appointment, call or text the seller as soon as you know. Getting a horse ready to show to prospective buyers is hard work, and the seller deserves your courtesy. (7) DO take your instructor with you if at all possible. They are much more experienced than you and will be able to see faults that you will not.

And as your child’s instructor, they are the best judge of what horse will best suit your child’s needs. Just remember, your instructor is a professional and you should expect to pay for their time and expertise. (8) DO make sure you have good directions to the horse’s location.

GPS can be somewhat unreliable in rural areas, so get backup directions from the seller. DO get the seller’s cell phone number so you can call if you get lost. (9) DO leave non-horsey friends and family members at home, including small children who won’t be the primary riders of the horse. This includes infants in strollers.

(10) DON’T bring your dog, even if he’s on a leash. (11) DO make sure each family member wears appropriate clothing, even if they are not going to ride, and that means jeans (or breeches) and heeled boots. Your child should bring and wear his or her safety helmet (you did buy them an approved riding helmet, right??).

  • For safety’s sake, no one should wear shorts, flip-flops, or sandals.
  • 12) DO look around the facility.
  • Observe what is in the trash cans (tubes of calming paste, empty syringes, or empty bottles of Acepromazine?) and what condition the other horses are in.
  • 13) DO have the seller ride the horse before you or your child ride the horse.
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And if your instructor is with you, have them ride the horse before you or your child get on. (14) DON’T be afraid of offending the seller if you decide the horse isn’t right for you. As soon as you are certain of this, you can simply politely inform the seller that you don’t think it’s a good match and say your good-byes.

  • This will save both your time and the seller’s.
  • 15) If the horse appears suitable, DO have your child perform all of the tasks listed above under “Temperament, Temperament, Temperament” when you go out to look at the horse.
  • If your child can’t perform these tasks with this horse, it’s time to move on.

(16) DON’T ruin your negotiating power and tempt yourself to buy too soon by showing up with a horse trailer in tow. (17) DO take plenty of photos and video. (18) DO take notes about what you observe. Put a copy of the horse-buying checklist for each horse on a clipboard and have a pen handy.

  • Takes notes so you don’t forget what you see.
  • This is especially important if you are looking at several horses the same day.
  • 19) DO have your instructor come out in person and pre-approve the horse before you purchase.
  • 20) DO talk over the horse’s price with your instructor to make sure that he or she feels the horse is priced fairly (and if not, what a fair price would be).

(21) DO listen to your instructor! If he or she says a horse is unsuitable, don’t argue and just move on, no matter how beautiful the horse is or how much your child wants it. Physical Signs That the Horse May Not Be What It Seems There are some physical signs you can be on the alert for that might indicate the horse has been given a calming agent or sedation.

  • Eep in mind that sometimes it may just be the way that horse is – droopy lip or ears, stumbling gait (in which case the horse may not be safe to ride), floppy lower lip, or drooling.
  • See how long it takes for the horse to respond to a stimulus, such as a dog or a loud sound – a horse that turns its head slowly may be sedated.

A dead giveaway for a gelding is that his male part may be distended, and if asked to walk or jog, he may not put it away (sorry, but this is a good way to tell). This is why it’s important that, if you are interested in purchasing the horse, you have your vet draw blood for potential drug testing.

Also, some sellers may try to hide the fact that the horse is deaf or has vision problems. Some horses have white on their faces that extends far up above the eyes and near the ears. If it does, look at how the horse carries its ears. Deaf horses often have ears that point out and down more than a horse with good hearing.

Make sure you ask the seller – if the horse is deaf it should be noted in the purchase agreement. Deafness may not be a deal-breaker – deaf horses can be used successfully in performance events (and can even be an advantage as the horse won’t hear loud noises and spook as a result).

But it is something to discuss with your instructor to get their thoughts on how it might affect what your child will be doing with the horse. Bad vision, on the other hand, is more likely to be an issue. Horses with bad vision, eye diseases, or blindness should be scratched off your list. Negotiating the Price DO NOT be influenced by the seller who tells you another prospective purchaser is making an offer, coming out to see the horse or otherwise tries to pressure you into making a decision before you are ready.

That is a very common tactic used by sellers to get you to commit to a purchase. If another purchaser does actually buy the horse before you make an offer, you will find another horse. Counsel your child (and anyone else accompanying you to look at the horse) not to discuss price, and absolutely do not disclose your horse-buying budget to anyone other than your instructor.

  • Also counsel your child not to be overly enthusiastic about the horse in front of the seller – save that discussion for the ride home.
  • Make sure your child understands in advance you will not buy any horse until your child’s instructor has approved it.
  • Once you have identified what you think is a suitable horse, have your instructor come out a second time to fully evaluate the horse.

A benefit of having your instructor involved in the selection process is that, because you purchased the horse based on their recommendation, he or she will do everything in their power to make the horse work for your child. You should expect your instructor to charge you for the time that he or she spends looking at horses for you to buy.

  1. You are seeking his or her professional opinion, and that opinion is worth paying for.
  2. Be sure to ask up front how much this service will cost so there are no surprises.
  3. If your instructor does not approve of the horse, do not buy it, no matter how much your child may want it – your instructor is a trained professional and you should trust his or her opinion.

If you buy the horse against your instructor’s recommendations, be prepared to have to find a new facility and instructor! At the very least, the instructor may not be vested in making the horse and your child a successful team. You can expect most horse sellers to negotiate on the asking price.

A lot like buying a used car, how much the seller is willing to negotiate depends upon market conditions, how long the horse has been for sale, the seller’s personal and financial circumstances, and, to a certain degree, how much the seller likes you and thinks you will provide a good home for their horse.

Before you make any offers, discuss with your instructor what they think a fair price is. If the horse is fairly priced up front, you may not even want to negotiate. Keep in mind you are not at a swap meet – you don’t want to insult the seller by offering a price that is ridiculously low (more than 20% less than what they are asking).

  1. If the seller won’t negotiate on the price, perhaps they would agree to deliver the horse or provide some other concession that would be helpful, such as sending the horse’s winter blanket along with him.
  2. Only in unusual circumstances is any tack included in a horse sale, although most sellers do include a halter (some states even legally require horses to be sold with a halter).

Sales Commissions Your instructor may charge a buyer’s commission on any horse he or she selects for you, and this charge may be in addition to, or in lieu of, any fees he or she charges to look at horses for you. Be sure to ask up front how much the commission will be.

Commission rates for buyers typically run from 10-20% of the purchase price and are typically paid by the buyers. Note that a single horse sale may involve two commissions – one to the seller’s instructor (paid by the seller) and one to the buyer’s instructor (paid by the buyer). After you have selected a horse, if your instructor does not want to charge you for his or her help in buying your horse, consider presenting him or her with a nice token of your appreciation, such as a gift certificate to a tack shop or restaurant, or even some homemade cookies.

DO NOT Buy a Horse without a Vet Check! Once you and your instructor have identified a suitable horse, you should make arrangements with the seller to have a pre-purchase examination by an equine veterinarian. Choose a veterinarian who has not seen the horse before (ask your instructor for a recommendation).

Both you and your instructor should be present for the vet check to hear the vet’s comments firsthand. Rarely will a vet outright “pass” or “fail” a horse on a vet check. Instead, they will relate their observations to you and give you their opinion of whether the horse will be able to perform your intended uses and if any maintenance may be required to keep it sound and healthy (this could include corrective shoeing, regular chiropractic adjustments or massage, or special supplements or injections to manage wear and tear caused by years of use).

You will then be responsible for making a decision based upon those observations. Your vet will check the horse’s soundness and general health and may recommend further testing or X-rays for a more complete evaluation. Because it is fairly common for sellers to administer painkillers, sedatives, and other drugs that can mask lameness or enhance performance, we highly recommend having your vet draw blood at the time of the exam.

  1. Your vet can store that blood back at the clinic and test it for various substances if the horse’s behavior or soundness changes abruptly after your purchase.
  2. A typical vet check will cost $500-1,000, and the cost will be on the higher end if X-rays or further tests are recommended, but it is the best way to make sure you do not buy expensive or heartbreaking health or soundness problems, so well worth the price – even if it costs more than the purchase price of the horse! More information about pre-purchase veterinary examinations.

Get It in Writing! ​ One of the most important aspects of purchasing a horse is having a good purchase contract! A well-written purchase contract should clearly state the terms of your purchase, including any representations and warranties the seller has made about the horse.

  1. A contract needs to protect you if the horse turns out to be something other than what the seller has represented it to be.
  2. This is also where having the blood sample taken by the vet can be worth the cost.
  3. If a horse’s behavior or soundness changes in the 30 days after you get the horse home or to its new barn, the legal language in your contract may be your only recourse.

Make sure you choose a contract specifically written for PURCHASING a horse, not SELLING one. ELS offers a variety of horse purchase forms you can download and complete. After you have negotiated the purchase price, sit down with the seller and fill out the horse purchase contract.

If the seller refuses to sign your contract, that is a RED FLAG. An honest seller will not have any issue with the terms in the contract, but a seller who is trying to trick you into buying a lame horse will likely refuse to sign. If the horse is registered, make sure your purchase contract specifies the seller is the legal owner and they must sign all registration and other documents over to you at the time of the sale.

If available, look at the registration papers and make sure the photo and/or description matches the horse you are considering buying. We have some great information on our website to help you in your quest to buy a horse. See our website at https://www.equinelegalsolutions.com/buying-and-selling.html,

Is it OK to ride a 25 year old horse?

Horses can be ridden while ever they are healthy. I’ve known horses nearly 30 years old still get excited about going out for a ride, and still full of the joys of spring when they do!

Can you jump a 25 year old horse?

Q: My daughter has fallen in love with one of the horses at her lesson barn. She does wonderful with him and he is great with her. We are thinking about leasing him with the option to purchase him at the end of one year. He’s been successful on the hunter/jumper circuit, which is what my daughter is working towards. Get Our Free Weekly Enewsletter About Horses A: It is absolutely fine to jump a 20-year-old horse as long as he remains a sound and willing mount. Older horses are perfect mounts for budding riders and shouldn’t be shunned because of age. The most obvious aspect to consider when dealing with older yet still active horses is degenerative joint disease.

Is it easy to ride a horse?

Patience Is a Virtue in Horse Riding – Learning any new activity can be intimidating, but all of these three people agree that riding is an endeavor worth pursuing even if you’re not young. There’s nothing more rewarding that climbing aboard a 1,000-pound animal and realizing that you can guide him where to go and at what speed.

  1. But learning to sit and steer at every speed takes time and patience.
  2. There can be a lot of ups and downs with learning how to ride,” Beck says.
  3. You steadily improve and then boom, you hit a plateau.
  4. But it’s like that with learning anything new.” Learning to ride a horse is not like riding a bike, though.

It’s not necessarily easy, and your body doesn’t just know what to do. Riding is an activity you have to want to do and it’s one that requires patience. It’s not a skill that develops overnight, Beck adds. At first, your goal is simply to learn how to ride a horse without jostling around in the saddle. Linda Beck didn’t learn to how to ride a horse herself until she was in her early 60s.

Can a 300lb person ride a horse?

Q: Can a horse carry a 300-pound person? – Some horses can carry a 300-pound rider, but your balance is also important. If you don’t have a good balance then it’ll be very difficult for even the largest horses to comfortably carry the weight.

Can a horse live to 45?

Do ponies live longer than horses? – Just like dogs, smaller horses tend to live longer. Most full-grown horses live between 20 to 30 years if they are healthy and well-cared for. Ponies, on the other hand, can live well into their 30s with some living into their 40s.

Can a horse live to 42?

Thoroughbred   The oldest recorded thoroughbred racehorse was the 42-year-old chestnut gelding Tango Duke (foaled 1935), owned by Carmen J. Koper of Barongarook, Victoria, Australia. The horse died on 25 January 1978.

What horse lives 40 years or more?

How Long Do Different Horse Breeds Live? – Just as with humans, the lifespan of horses can vary greatly, and this variation can be particularly significant among different breeds. Starting with Thoroughbreds, these horses are typically known for their speed and racing prowess.

  • On average, Thoroughbreds live between 25 to 30 years,
  • However, their high-energy lifestyle and the physical demands of racing can sometimes impact their lifespan.
  • Next up, Quarter Horses.
  • These versatile and hardy horses generally have a life expectancy of around 25 to 35 years, and with excellent care, some have been known to live well into their 40s.

Arabian Horses, known for their endurance and vibrant spirit, often have an impressive lifespan. These horses can live anywhere from 30 to 40 years, with some reaching into their 50s, given the right conditions and care. As for other common breeds, the lifespan can vary considerably.

  • For instance, smaller breeds like the Shetland Pony can often live into their 30s or even 40s, while larger breeds like the Clydesdale tend to have shorter lifespans, typically in the late teens to early 20s.
  • Eep in mind that while breed can influence a horse’s lifespan, individual factors such as diet, exercise, healthcare, and living conditions play a significant role too.

In essence, a horse’s lifespan is a complex interplay of its genetics and the care it receives. Here is a chart that includes the average lifespan for many common horse breeds.

Breed Lifespan
Arabian 25 to 35 years
Appaloosa 25 to 35 years
Haflinger 25 to 30 years
American Paint Horses 25 to 30 years
Mustang 20 to 25 years
Friesian 14 to 16 years
Clydesdale 25 to 30 years
Shire 25 to 30 years
Halovarian 25 to 30 years
Gypsy Vanner 25 to 30 years
Tennessee Walker 28 to 33 years
Standardbred 25 to 35 years
Thoroughbred 25 to 28 years
Quarter horse 25 to 35 years
Akhal Teke 18 to 20 years
Irish Sport Horse 25 to 30 years
Norwegian Fjord 28 to 30 years
Belgian 25 to 30 years
Percheron 25 to 30 years
Icelandic Horse 25 to 30 years
Paso Fino 25 to 35 years
Dutch Warmblood 25 to 30 years
American Saddlebred 30 to 35 years
Shetland Pony 20 to 25 years
Miniature Horse 25 to 35 years
Andalusian 20 to 25 years

How old is the oldest horse to live?

Old Billy Longest-living horse on record Billy’s head on display in Old Billy (also called Billy or Ol’ Billy ) was the longest-living horse on record. Old Billy was verified to be 62 at his death. Born in, England in 1760, Billy adventured and became a that pulled up and down canals.